What Every Jeweller Should Know About Gemstones with Gemmologist Marie Chalmers (Podcast Episode)
Gemstones are at the heart of so many jewellery designs, but how much do you really know about them? In this week’s episode of the Jewellers Academy podcast, gemmologist Marie Chalmers shares her expertise on everything from diamond grading and coloured gemstones to lab-grown and recycled stones. Whether you're looking to build your confidence, make more informed buying decisions or simply love learning about the fascinating world of gemmology, you'll come away with practical knowledge and a fresh appreciation for the stones we work with every day.
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If you've ever wondered what makes one diamond sparkle more than another, whether lab-grown diamonds are really the same as natural diamonds, or how to become a gemmologist, this episode is packed with expert insight.
This week’s host Kelly Twigg is joined by award-winning gemmologist and diamond expert Marie Chalmers from Chalmers Gems for an in-depth conversation about the fascinating science behind gemstones and the practical knowledge every jeweller can benefit from.
Whether you're setting your first stone, choosing gemstones for clients, or simply love learning more about the materials you work with, this episode offers a wealth of advice from someone who has spent her career studying and grading gemstones.
In this episode you'll discover
What gemmology actually is and why it's much more scientific than many people realise.
Different routes into becoming a qualified gemmologist.
Why understanding gemstones can make you a better jeweller.
How diamonds are graded using the famous 4Cs.
Why cut is often the most overlooked yet most important factor in a diamond's beauty.
Practical advice for choosing diamonds that offer the best value.
How to work with trusted diamond suppliers.
The real difference between natural, laboratory-grown and synthetic gemstones.
How laboratory-grown diamonds compare with cubic zirconia.
The growing market for recycled diamonds and recycled gemstones.
Why understanding gemstone provenance is becoming increasingly important for today's jewellers.
Gemmology is where science meets jewellery
Many people assume jewellery is purely creative, but gemstones are rooted firmly in science.
Marie explains how subjects like chemistry, geology and physics all play an important role in understanding how gemstones form, how they can be identified, and how their properties affect the way they look and perform.
She also shares her own journey into gemology, proving that you don't need a perfect academic background to succeed in the field.
The most misunderstood of the 4Cs
When buying diamonds, most people focus on carat weight.
Some look at colour.
Others pay attention to clarity.
But according to Marie, the feature that often makes the biggest visual difference is one that receives far less attention: cut.
A beautifully cut diamond can maximise light return, disguise inclusions and even appear brighter and whiter than a poorly cut stone with better grades on paper.
For jewellers working with clients, understanding this can help deliver much better value without necessarily increasing budgets.
Natural vs laboratory-grown diamonds
One of the biggest discussions in the jewellery industry today is the rise of laboratory-grown diamonds.
Marie explains exactly what they are, why gemologists refer to them as synthetic diamonds, and how they differ from natural diamonds despite having the same chemical, physical and optical properties.
The conversation also explores why laboratory-grown diamonds have become more popular in recent years, how technology has evolved, and why natural diamonds continue to hold their unique place in the market.
If you've ever been confused by the terminology around lab-grown diamonds, this episode offers a clear, balanced explanation.
Are recycled diamonds the future?
Sustainability continues to be an important conversation within jewellery.
Marie shares her experience working in diamond recycling and explains how recycled diamonds are recovered, cleaned, re-cut where necessary and returned to the marketplace.
It's a fascinating insight into an area of the industry many jewellers may not even realise exists.
For jewellers looking to offer more sustainable options to clients, recycled diamonds are becoming an increasingly valuable part of the conversation.
Practical advice for jewellers
One of the strongest messages throughout this episode is that jewellers don't need to know everything themselves.
Marie encourages makers to build relationships with trusted gemstone and diamond suppliers who can help source the best stones for each client's budget and priorities.
Understanding enough to ask the right questions—and knowing when to rely on specialist expertise—can make all the difference.
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Whether you're just starting your jewellery journey or have years of experience at the bench, this episode will deepen your understanding of the incredible gemstones that bring jewellery to life.
From the science of gemology to practical buying advice, diamond grading and sustainable sourcing, it's an episode full of knowledge you'll use again and again.
Listen now on your favourite podcast platform, or watch the full conversation on the Jewellers Academy YouTube channel.
(A quick note on spelling: Outside the USA, the accepted spelling is gemmology (with two 'm's), while in the United States it is spelled gemology. Both refer to the scientific study of gemstones.)
about marie
Marie Chalmers is an award-winning gemmologist with more than 20 years' experience in the jewellery and gemstone industry. Throughout her career she has travelled the world, visiting gemstone mines, working alongside manufacturers, cutters and jewellery designers, and developing an exceptional understanding of the global gemstone trade. As founder of Chalmers Gems, Marie is passionate about making the fascinating world of gemstones more accessible, sharing her expertise through education, social media and responsibly sourced gemstones. In this episode, she joins us to explore the science behind gemmology, diamonds and coloured gemstones, and shares practical insights for jewellers at every stage of their journey.